Gertrude Stein is often cited for saying that “Mallorca is a paradise - if you can stand it” when advising Robert Grave about visiting the island in the late 1920s.
But the islands rural nature, these days, is central to it’s appeal; with it’s open desert-like plains, and long sand-dusted beach fronts, contrasted by mountainous stretches that offer breathtaking skyscraper views and an endless array of rocky alcoves.
Mallorca is a true adventure paradise filled with family run businesses and local delights.
Losing your way, and finding it again. Let us offer a little insight into the areas we’ve explored to help you get your bearings and provide some starting points for your forthcoming adventure.
PALMA
WHERE? The capital city. The Base camp.
WHY? Palma is the centre of modern Mallorca with all of the creature comforts you might need. The old town balances things out with plenty of history. Expect a mix cobbled streets, hidden galleries, plenty of great coffee shops and authentic vegan eateries.
HOW? The majority of trips will start here as it’s the jump off point for most activity on the island, including the airport. It’s the place to stay if you can’t rent a car and want everything on your doorstep, or simply if you’re just in town for a few days.
WE RECOMMEND. The city comes into it’s own after dark. Stop for a scoop of vegan Pistachio and Dark Chocolate Ice Cream at Riva Reno and walk the beachfront at sunset, observe the majesty of the Santa Maria Cathedral, and finish up navigating the old town’s winding streets.
PORT DE SOLLER
WHERE? The hub of the island’s Western coast. One train, and one tram ride later.
WHY? The biggest draw for Soller is partially accessibility, especially if you’re mostly on foot. But you won’t be disappointed by the scenery (Soller appears to have been designed exclusively to frame the sunset as it descends into the ocean), or the offer of beach-side bars and restaurants.
HOW? If you’re driving then take the long route over the Col De Soller for some of the islands infamous winding roads. For everyone else, the train and tram combination is a no brainer. Sit back, open the window, and revel in the views.
WE RECOMMEND. A dip in the ocean, of course… Fresh orange from George’s (Say hi to George), dinner with your toes in the sand at the family-owned Patiki Beach. If you have time, head for one of the Port’s two light house peaks.
VALDEMOSSA
WHERE? Mountain village on the west side of Mallorca.
WHY? Valley views, and distinctive architecture. Expect broad cobbled streets. It can be a hub for tour coaches, but typically quiet, and very picturesque.
HOW? Accessible by bus from Palma.
WE RECOMMEND. The best way to experience this is en route to Deia. Drive the winding coastal roads to appreciate the wonder of these cliff edge villages.
POLLENCA & PORT DE POLLENCA
WHERE? The Northern most tip of the Island.
WHY? Port De Pollenca is a truly beautiful family friendly place to stay with so many restaurants, cafes and shops. It’s become known for some glamorous hotel stays, as much as it is a hub for cyclists and local climbs. That said, the views are pretty special and well worth the journey.
HOW? Accessible by bus from Palma.
WE RECOMMEND. The promenade is worth a walk, grab a coffee or a juice from Cappuccino, and eat at Bellaverde (options are limited in the area). Drive up to Cap De Formentor when you’re finished, via Es Colomer Viewpoint, and pull into Formentor beach if you have time. You can also access Formentor Beach by ferry which we recommend if you don’t have a car.
SOLLER
WHERE? Nestled in a Valley in the North West.
WHY? The place to stay if you want the mountains on your doorstep (ideal if you’re here to cycle or hike), and the best orange juice you’ll ever taste.
HOW? If you’re not based in Soller then catch the train from Palma for the day. It takes roughly an hour from point to point, but the quaint carriages, and mountain views are exceptional.
WE RECOMMEND. Soller is best seen on a Saturday when the market is in full swing. Buy Olive bread from the locals, grab a coffee from Re:Organic, and capture the tram as it glides through the square with your juice in hand.
FORNALUTX
WHERE? A little Hamlet village a 40-minute-walk away from Soller.
WHY? For the charming cobbled streets, an abundance of plants and valley views. A true insight into Mallorcan village life.
HOW? Explore the whole valley by walking from Soller via Biniaraix to Fornalutx. Make sure to explore all the weaving back streets - they are a plant lovers dream.
WE RECOMMEND. Check Komoot for walking routes to mix up the views. The villages are like an archipelago so follow your nose from one to the next, and be rewarded with an iced drink at the top.
DEIA
WHERE? Coastal Town North of Valdemossa.
WHY? Most known for it’s literary and musical cultural history, Deia has offered it’s services as a respite to creatives for generations.
HOW? Accessible by bus from Palma.
WE RECOMMEND. It’s a small village, but plan to spend your evening here to see its split personality. S’Hortet is a short descent from the main village, but offers an array of vegan options and jazzy vibes. Hanok is an exceptional family-run Korean restaurant, and Sa Fonda consistently offers lively evening entertainment. All family friendly.
SALTY LIPS AND SANDY TOES
PLAYA DE MURO
This is the paradise Gertrude Stein was talking about. Located on the East Coast Plaja De Muro is a dreamy location for a white sand coastline as far as the eye can see.
Due to the proximity to Alcudia, there’s plenty of opportunity for a day trip and dinner, but be sure to stay for the sunset.
We particularly enjoyed the architecture of the many beachfront apartments hidden nestled in the trees.
S’AMARADOR
This is one of two breathtaking beaches within the Cala Mondrago Nature Reserve.
Perhaps our favourite beach in Mallorca for it’s surrounding woodland and crystal clear waters, a short stroll through the trees will reveal this somewhat hidden gem.
There’s ample parking on the S’Amarador side and it’s about as 10 minute walk to the beach. Definitely one to pass by time slowly with an epic picnic prepared.
PORT DE POLLENCA
Located right up in the North, this is a great beach spot to aim for if you’re visiting Pollenca and the Port.
It’s a shallow beach front that backs on to the promenade, so not particularly private, but it’s a convenient option and close to civilisation with food and drink options aplenty.
We recommend grabbing an early dinner at Restaurant Bellaverde tucked in on Carrer de les Monges. and heading over to the Mirador Es Colomer view point for a breathtaking sunset view over Pollenca.
PORT DE SOLLER
We love everything about the Port De Soller, and it’s stunning pink sunset views, the local hiking opportunities and mouthwatering orange juice.
Whether you’re intending to spend the day here paddling on a SUP, or just want to enjoy your dinner at the port while the sun drops behind the lighthouse, it’s a no brainer for the East coast.
The sandy spots at the beach fill up fast, but the views compensate.
SOLLER SOAP FACTORY
WHERE? Soller - North
WHY? Located in the heart of Soller Old Town this property is owned by a lovely couple from London who moved away from the busy city life to this former Soap Factory in 2014, and have been renovating ever since. If you can book the Soller View Apartment (pictured) the view really is something special.
HOW? AIR BNB | 4 guests | From £90 pp. There are 4 apartments within the building listed on Air BnB.
PALMA LOFT
WHERE? Central Palma
WHY? Location, location, location. This is a beautiful large loft space in the heart of Palma boasting simple design, natural colour palette and immaculate interior. Antonio is a super host and has always been highly accommodating during my stays. Just note that loft means loft so be prepared to climb several flights of stairs to get there.
HOW? AIR BNB | 2 guests | from £68 pn
SIERRA TRAMUNTANA GETAWAY
WHERE? Located just outside Es Capdella nestled in the south west area of the Serra De Tramuntana Mountains.
WHY? The minimal design and warm aesthetic looks like it would make for the perfect winter getaway, so it’s been on our hit list for a minute. The way the windows are positioned frame the landscape beautifully and I can imagine spending slow days and nights taking in the breathtaking views.
HOW? AIR BNB | 2 guests | From £148 pn
Photography - Air BnB Listings.
ECOCIRER
WHERE? Soller - North
WHY? This self proclaimed healthy stay is a family run bed and breakfast co-founded by Barbara Marti, (daughter of Artist Francesca Marti - check out her artwork scattered throughout the building). With a vegan and vegetarian focus they locally source plant based ingredients, many coming directly from their very own family run finca down the road, as well as decor that’s been upcycled, recycled and restored.
HOW? Rooms from £155 per night, 6 rooms available HERE
VILLA VEGANA
WHERE? Selva - North
WHY? A little vegan paradise.
Set up within a designated conservation area in 2013 by a graphic designer come vegan chef, Villa Vegana lies on a 30.000 sqm ground surrounded by orange, lemon and olive trees with panoramic views to the Tramuntana Mountains. They only use sustainable and vegan cleaning products and provide vegan cosmetics not tested on animals which is a detail we much appreciate.
HOW? Rooms from £119 per night HERE
CUROLLA
WHERE? Maria De La Salut | Central
WHY? This ‘Hotel and Healthy Food’ stay is located in a historic building dating from before 1840. A bit of a wild card as we haven’t been here yet but are keen to try it given it’s focus on creating a healthy, calm and authentically local stay in the quiet town of Maria De La Salut.
HOW? Rooms from £133 per night HERE
I’M TIRED, I’M HUNGRY, I DON’T SPEAK THE LANGUAGE
AND I’M VEGAN
TEMPLE NATURA | PALMA
WHERE? Palma
Carrer del Temple, 4, bajos, 07001 Palma, Illes Balears
WHAT? Vegan + Vegetarian Colombian inspired dishes
WHY? Another family run gem hidden in Palma with a beautiful courtyard garden centred around a long standing mandarin tree. The owner, who you may also find taking your order, kindly made us a round of refreshing drinks using mandarins freshly picked from the tree. The bursting scent from the rinds when you press in to them with your fingertips is something you need to experience for yourself. A lasting smell of citrusy goodness.
WE RECOMMEND: Hands down the ‘Chilli’ Nachos with ‘cheese’. Thank us later.
LA MOLIENDA | PALMA
WHERE? Palma
Smaller location - Carrer de Sa Mar, 43, 07100 Sóller, Illes Balears
Bigger location - Carrer de l'Arxiduc Lluís Salvador, 9a, 07004 Palma
WHAT? Coffee Shop with traditional Spanish food on offer. Good vegan options.
WHY? The spaces are light, airy and minimalist in design, with two locations with vastly different identities. Crucially, though, they both offer really good coffee which is much appreciated by locals and visitors alike.
WE RECOMMMEND: The local tomato and olive oil on toast + the trusted Avo on toast and sit outside on corner of C’ de Sa Mar people watching.
ECOCIRER | SOLLER
WHERE? Soller
Carrer de Reial, 15, 07100 Sóller, Illes Balears
WHAT? Vegan + Vegetarian all inclusive Breakfast and lunch experiences using local ingredients.
WHY? Growing and picking fresh produce from their own Finca down the road, this family run townhouse offers up a different menu everyday depending on what’s available and in season. Whether you are staying for the night or if you have booked in for breakfast, this self proclaimed healthy stay will offer a nutritious and restorative experience
WE RECOMMMEND: The full breakfast experience for 25euro
RE-ORGANIC | SOLLER
WHERE? Soller
Carrer de Sa Mar, 43, 07100 Sóller, Illes Balears
WHAT? Worldwide inspired breakfast and lunch with fantastic vegan options.
WHY? A lovely calming space, both inside amongst the beautifully curated furniture and handmade lights, and outside in the courtyard framed by trees and a coy carp water feature. The coffee is good, the food is even better and the service is so welcoming. They really encourage you to sit and settle and take your time. The plastic free organic shop up front is good for loose groceries, an array of spices and herbal scented treats.
WE RECOMMEND: Breakfast Granola Bowl or if you’re stopping for lunch then try the Tofu Wok Bowl. They also do a fine dining experience in the evenings.
OTHER OPTIONS…
S’HORTET | DEIA - Healthy Mediterranean fusion - Vegan + Vegetarian friendly - We Recommend the Vegan Quesadillas!
ES TALLER | VALDEMOSSA - Located in an old mechanical car garage - Local seasonal products together with spices to create flavours from all around the world - We recommend the Vegan Panang Curry.
PATIKI BEACH | PORT DE SOLLER - Healthy Mediterranean fusion - Farm to Table - Vegan Options
BELLAVERDE | PORT DE POLLENCA - A house of Mediteranean Vegan and Vegetarian cuisine
ES BALUARD MUSEUM
WHERE? PALMA
TREN SOLLER
GERHARDT BRAUN GALLERY
WHERE? PALMA
SA BASSA BLANCA SCULPTURE PARK
WHERE? ALCUDIA
WHERE? PALMA > SOLLER
Carrer d'Eusebi Estada, 1, 07004 Palma, Illes Balears, Spain
ES CINC PONTS | SOLLER
A stroll away from the centre of the old town of Soller, this viaduct is nestled within one of the lovely walks through the Tramuntana mountain range. It’s a gentle walk up to this point but the beauty of this mountain range is you really can make the walk your own - be that a gentle stroll or one as challenging and exploratory as you like by connecting the many pathways together. You’ll likely come across friendly locals walking their dogs, some roaming sheep and recurring pops of orange and yellow peeping through the trees - a gentle reminder of the juice that awaits you.
MIRADOR ES COLOMER VIEWPOINT | PORT DE POLLENCA
GORG BLAU | SOLLER
A short, rather windy, drive away from Soller right down the middle of Puig Major and Puig de Massanella will bring you to the mesmerising views of Gorg Blau, one of two reservoirs in Mallorca. It’s almost hard to believe that this was artificially created but nevertheless it oozes it’s very own natural beauty and now provides Palma and surrounding towns and villages with fresh water.
It’s super easy to park up and head for a walk right around the waters edge. Once again it’s a gentle, peaceful walk completely surrounded by the natural beauty of the Tramuntana mountain range. Take a picnic and enjoy the peace and serenity of still waters and mirror reflections.
We couldn’t agree more with Catalan poet Miguel Costa y Llobera
“Ai!, com la vida és el Gorg Blau!” - from his poem ‘El Gorg Blau.’
Life really is here.
A WALK FROM SOLLER TO FORNALUTX | SOLLER
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION.
Main Airport >> Palma Airport, 15 mins from city centre.
Public Transport >> There are lots of busses facilitating travel across the island as well as a small metro service in Palma. There are three train routes which will get you to different points of the island. You can have a look at the various routes here.
Currency >> Euro
Climate >> Mediterranean climate. Very hot sunny summers & mild winters.
Ideal Length Of Stay >> 3 days if you’re staying in Palma, 5+ days to really hit all four corners. The longer the better.
Emergency Contact Number >> 112